As mentioned previously, Coty, Inc. recently made headlines with reports it may sell off its consumer beauty division, including brands such as CoverGirl and Rimmel. But what is equally newsworthy, Coty’s CEO Sue Nabi, who joined Coty in 2020, brought her own high-end vegan skincare brand Orveda into the portfolio in 2021. Orveda is positioned as a diversity-owned French green biotech house, and combines lab-derived actives with luxurious textures to express a new kind of modern vegan luxury. Its imperial green packaging conveys luxury and refinement, which guests can experience for themselves at La Maison Orveda, in Paris, Shanghai, or New York’s Upper East Side.
Another example of French clean biotechnology blends heritage with global reach. Puréality was founded in 2021 by Nicolas de Klebnikoff, rooted in French botanical traditions, with its global headquarters based in Hong Kong. The brand embraces a Clean Biotech mission: 95% natural-origin ingredients, fully vegan formulas, and plant-based innovations designed to rebalance the skin microbiome and repair the skin barrier.
Similarly, Biossance helped define the category with its sugarcane-derived squalane, a renewable replacement for shark liver oil.
Perhaps one of the more recent striking breakthroughs comes from the Mibelle Group, working with LanzaTech and the Fraunhofer Institute for Interfacial Engineering and Biotechnology (IGB). Together, they’ve developed a CO₂-based ingredient that can replace palm oil in cosmetics and other goods. By capturing carbon instead of harvesting tropical crops, it marks a shift from extraction to regeneration — and a hopeful path away from the ecological damage and loss of wild animal habitats tied to palm cultivation.
Recombinant Collagen
Collagen, traditionally sourced from animals, can now be made via fermentation to replicate human collagen. As dermatologist Dr. Jenny Liu highlights on her YouTube channel, collagen III is a staple in Chinese skincare routines. There are several types of collagen, but it is collagen III that is considered ‘youthful’ since it is abundant in young skin and decreases with age.
L’Oréal launched its Age Perfect Collagen Royal Anti-Aging Face Cream in China, incorporating recombinant collagen III produced through biotechnology. It’s “enriched with Regenerative Collagen – 100% Identical to Human Skin Type III Collagen“.
California-based Geltor pioneered Collume, which is a marine-inspired vegan collagen polypeptide. It’s 100% animal-free, made through biodesign and precision fermentation. Geltor also offers the following ingredients all “bio designed to meet clean beauty standards.”
Caviance: Caviar-inspired vegan collagen for skin rejuvenation
HumaColl21: A biomimetic collagen that enhances skin smoothness.
Elastapure: An elastin polypeptide that improves skin elasticity.
But of course maintaining collagen levels depends most on a balanced diet and consistent sun protection, which is widely agreed among scientists.
As the beauty industry continues to evolve, the shift towards recombinant collagen reflects a broader movement towards more ethical and sustainable skincare practices.
