If you needed proof that beauty regulations are a global patchwork, look no further than the recent recall of Pilgrim Anti-Dandruff Shampoo & Conditioner. This set, made in India and sold on Amazon, was stopped at the UK border and hit with a mandatory recall. The reason? It contained Zinc Pyrithione, an ingredient that is perfectly legal in its country of origin (India) but is strictly banned in the UK and EU.
So why is it banned? Regulators in Europe classify Zinc Pyrithione as a Category 1B reproductive toxicant. In plain terms, laboratory studies have raised concerns that exposure to the ingredient could potentially lead to fertility damage, including reduced sperm count and impaired testosterone levels. Because of these risks—and because safer alternatives exist—the EU made the decision to ban it from cosmetics entirely in 2022.
Here is the reality check for US consumers: While the UK and EU have banned Zinc Pyrithione, the FDA still considers it safe. As a result, you can find it in the ingredient lists of some of the most popular shampoos on American drugstore shelves right now.
Familiar names you might recognize that contain (or have recently contained) Zinc Pyrithione include:
- Head & Shoulders (classic dandruff formulas)
- CeraVe (Anti-Dandruff Shampoo)
- Dove (Dermacare line)
- Selsun Blue (certain variants)
- Nizoral (Anti-Dandruff Shampoo with Zinc Pyrithione formulas)
Why the Difference?
- In India & the USA: Regulators allow it in rinse-off products. The FDA permits concentrations up to 2%, operating on the belief that topical, short-term use poses minimal risk.
- In the EU/UK: It has been banned since 2022 due to its classification as a reproductive toxicant. They operate on a “precautionary principle”—if a chemical raises concerns and there are safe alternatives (like piroctone olamine), it gets pulled.
The Takeaway
The Pilgrim shampoo was ‘illegal’ the moment it arrived in the UK. But if you walk into a CVS in New York or a pharmacy in Mumbai, you can buy a shampoo with the exact same ingredient without a second thought. It is the same chemical, viewed through three completely different regulatory lenses.
