J-Beauty

Eau de Time

How Japanese skincare turned the science of ageing scent into an art of refinement.

Time leaves traces beyond fine lines and silver strands. It can also bring a subtle change in the skin’s natural scent. In Japan, where ageing is often associated with wisdom and respect, researchers at Shiseido’s Product Development Center studied this shift and identified the compound behind it—2-nonenal. The discovery, known locally as kareishū, reflects a truth of biology: as skin lipids oxidize over time, their scent profile evolves. Rather than conceal it, some Japanese brands have sought to understand it, and to refine it with characteristic precision.

Researchers found that 2-nonenal forms as certain skin lipids oxidize with age, creating a distinct, lingering scent. In response, Japanese formulators turned to persimmon tannins—natural antioxidants long valued for their deodorizing and purifying properties.

While it remains an unglamorous topic—rarely discussed outside scientific journals, it’s a fascinating area where science and nature intersect.

Brands like Mirai Clinical have translated this research into daily ritual. The company’s Persimmon Deodorizing Soap uses Japanese persimmon extract to help neutralize 2-nonenal while supporting the skin’s natural moisture barrier. Though according to their website, its U.S. operations are based in Nevada, the formula leans on Japanese provenance and tradition.

Similarly, Rememberin, a Korean brand, offers a natural deodorizing body wash featuring persimmon extract. Their formula emphasizes gentle, plant-based ingredients, aligning with a holistic approach to personal care.

Shiseido’s Research into Persimmon Extract

Shiseido has long explored the potential of persimmon extract in skincare. In collaboration with Takasago, a Japanese fragrance and flavor company, the brand developed technology aimed at reducing body odor linked to 2-nonenal, a compound associated with aging. While it seems persimmon extract does not appear in Shiseido’s current product lineup, this research underscores the company’s dedication to scientific innovation and its nuanced understanding of the chemistry of aging skin.

Beyond the Persimmon Hype

More than a decade after Japan’s initial studies on kareishū and 2-nonenal, the science remains intriguing but incomplete. Early trials, such as a small 2012 Japanese study showing reduced odor intensity after four weeks of using a polyphenol-rich soap, offered a promising start, yet large-scale, independent research has yet to follow.

While persimmon extract continues to feature in niche deodorizing products and a few new formulations across Asia, evidence of long-term or systemic impact is still limited. Green tea extract—another antioxidant-rich ingredient often paired with persimmon—has shown similar potential to help reduce oxidative odor compounds, though findings remain preliminary. What is clear, however, is the growing recognition of how aging alters skin chemistry—through lipid oxidation and microbiome shifts—prompting researchers to explore broader solutions, from plant-based antioxidants to microbiome-friendly cleansers.

The conversation has evolved from merely masking scent to understanding the biology of maturity—and, perhaps, reframing how we perceive it.


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